Nikon FM2 F3.5 1″ ASA100 (Kodak Gold)
Taken at Raja Uda, Penang 2005 with my trusty Nikon FM2 (lens: Zoom-Nikkor 35-70mm f/3.5-4.8s), mounted on a Slik U8000 tripod. This picture was scanned from a 3R photo with an entry level Canon scanner, hence the shitty quality. Excuse moi for that.
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Comment by Jerry
July 12, 2006 @ 10:06 pm
Woah.. the lighting make the “altar” looks “electrify”.
Comment by Lanatir
July 13, 2006 @ 10:09 am
i like the beauty in the intricate details. using kodak gold for this is an excellent choice… have u ever tried overexposing it by 1/3 stops i.e. at EI80? you will find better saturation, enhanced contrast and finer grain if you do (thanks to the thicker negs this generates).
would be good to see ur actual print and see if the lab did the photo justice.
Comment by michaelooi
July 13, 2006 @ 1:16 pm
Lanatir : the print turn out to be quite nice, very much different from the scan. But I reckoned it would have been nicer with a smaller arperture and longer exposure…
But I’ll need your explanation on what’s an EI80… I’m not so familiar about photography terms… ahaks. Cheers.
Comment by Lanatir
July 13, 2006 @ 2:18 pm
Ok during my film days, I used to experiment a lot with various types of film and would stock many rolls of favourite films in my freezer. From the teachings of my mentors and also from lots of reading, I came to a conclusion that IN GENERAL, for colour negative film, overexposing at 1/3 stops will give you the following results
- thicker negatives
- greater saturation
- improved contrast
Take note though that this is with the assumption that your camera meter is accurate. This will also make it easier for the technician at the lab to do adjustments (thanks to the thicker negs).
To expose ISO100 film at EI80 (exposure index 80), simply set your camera to ISO80 overiding the DX code and when you send for developing, do not tell the lab that you did this.
Same for an ISO400 film… simply override your camera to ISO320 instead.
This 1/3 rule works for most colour negatives but some negatives respond better at different overexposure levels (like NPH400 -> ISO250).
There are slightly different rules for B&W negs and colour slides.
Comment by michaelooi
July 13, 2006 @ 3:41 pm
oh, I’ve heard of this method before. Somebody taught me years ago and I didn’t manage to register the term. Takes a lot of practice though, never tried it before.
Thanks for the explanation dude,.
